thx for the reply.
gonna change the capasitor ASAP.

but it seems that in the area where i live don't have n sell samxon caps ( also other good brand caps )

i'm thinkin to double the capasity of the original caps.

is it the safe with changing 10 V 1000mF ( cos i can't find the seller who have the supplies ) to 16v 1000 mF ?(which the shopkeeper told me is okay to use it as long the capasity is the same )

note: the Geforce 4ti4200 reivive from the dead after i change the cap at the vga board en improve the heatsink n ramsink.
THQ CapMods for enlighten me!!

@big pope
i notice that u addin more caps than the original sums. how to place the additional caps in the board? is it the same with addin more capasity to the caps. example : 3pcs  10v 1000mF with one  10v 3300mF?

Well, you should not even power the board on, with bulging caps. They might end up (G-Luxons, for example, like to explode) badly and the board migh not be repairable anymore. Take this as very serious warning. It happend for me, others... and it will happen to you. It is just a matter of time or luck, what will happen. One thing is certain. The mobo will die.

Like you, I was also once waited with recapping. It end up the mosfets on the mobo killed and only and big thanks to Big Pope I managed to get the two mosfets and nothing else was damaged. Luck. Big luck. Don't count of that in your case. I also have many excelent boards that are not working anymore, even with complete exchange of mosfets. That include DFI LP B mobo and Epox 8RDA+ for example.

Samxon GC caps are need, not anything less. If they did not sell them, ask Big Pope for them. He will hapilly sell you some.

Increasing voltage is always safe. But it is not desirable. The AGP voltages are around 1,5 to 3,3V. 16V capacitor will be used at fraction of it's desired voltage and it can offer you then only a fraction of his specs.
That is the last thing you want.
Usualy I replace all the 10V caps by 6,3V ones. On mainboard are these major voltages - 12V, 5V and 3,3V. 10V cap can be used only for 5V and lower then, so - why not use better suited 6,3V cap here? You can only gain from that.
It is safe to measure the maximum voltage spike by scope (not DMM, scope - you need to know the spikes, not rounded voltage) on the cap first, but in 10V caps on mainboard - the case is closed. Use 6,3V one rather.

Shopkeepers tell you anything. Ask yourself if you want lower the capacitor specifications significantly or not. Because that is, what the bad caps doing when they are dying. Their specs go to hell. You are about to do the same when using 16V cap. Crazy people can tell you crazy things all the way. Think. Measure. Analyze.
Do not trust people just because they say something. Take at lest the useless DMM and check the cap voltage. I bet it will be either 1,5 or 2,5 or 3,3V. Not more that 5V, that I'm sure about it.

And when you getting capacitor - the MOST IMPORTANT stuff about capacitors FOR MAINBOARDS are their ESR (resistance) and hence the maximum ripple they can deliver. That is what separate good caps and crappy one. Take the time and check the table I made there:
http://capsmod.net/forum/viewthread.php?tid=19&extra=page%3D1
(see the table: Specifications of some good caps )

It is extremly important what cap brand and what TYPE of caps the shopkeeper offer you. To put the long story short - there are only FEW usably caps typed in whole world for mainboards. Using ANY OTHER CRAP TYPE you kill your mainboard. I did that two times, so, please, listen. This is not a joke. Soldering crappy caps like "LowESR" Hitano and such crap I killed my Epox, for example. It is a very important you do NOT use crap caps!
Only SEVEN (yes, seven and I'm not kidding) caps types are usable for mainboards low and super low ESR requirments - eg. having ripple above 3 000mA in the 1800-2200uF 16V types.

Congratulations on your GeForce TI 4200 revive! You are lucky. Don't push your luck.

And I can answer the question that go to Big Pope too - on many and many mainboards you see empty places, where the designer of the mobo mean to have caps. But for the optimalization of price they are removed later. Puting them back again you usualy get higher stability when overclocking the mobo and surely longetivity as well.
There simply should not be empty places!
Another way is this:


Soldering from bottom side of the mobo another two caps in parallel to existing ones. Plus adding a SMD ceramic caps too
DFI LP B mobo, driven to 263Mhz FSB at 3,3Vdimm voltage. 2868MHz reached

after viewing for a while, i notice that the bulging caps on Abit AT7 are made by NICHICON
, TEAPO.
the quality of the caps should be good.looks like the root of problem is lies somewhere else.

then i check the PSU , opened it en clean it. the 10v caps were all deformed. so it took awhile to finish exhanging buldging caps in the this 500W psu( local Brand PSU , 35 usd ,dual led fans, sata power connector. bought it 4 years ago. ), cos the caps position kinda crowded .forgot to take pictures.

cos i can't find 10v caps 1000mF, my best solution is to use 16v caps 1000mF.
guess what?the 12 rail getting better stable reading than before. the system is more stable.

the cuplrit for making my Abit at7 had bulging caps was this psu.

got trouble removing the caps, better change the solder tip to sharper ones.

to anyone who read this. :
PSU( Power Suplly Unit ) is the main investment to ur PC. don't be a cheap arse.

Nichicon caps are usualy ok, excep the bad batch of HN, HM ones once at about the AT7 time, lol...  Teapo is, OTOH, known bad brand, witch usualy does not bulge, just dry thru the bottom seal... Sneaky biatch.
So Teapos are not ok for sure, Nichicons are the question.

PSU is usualy the culprit cause for most problems, and people fail to realize that. 10V caps are usualy the caps on the 3.3 and 5V rail outpust, you can (I do) replace them with 6.3V versions. 16V is usualy overkill, not to mention is is hard to find a 3300uF and bigger cap with reasonable specs (I like Samxon GD there) for 16V and with d10 witch is usualy required by space limits...
When recapping PSU, i recap all the caps completely. One by one, all. In some PSUs are the small ones what are the culprit that cause failures of the bigger ones and you know where this lead to...

Usualy the output caps 1000uF (cheapo crappy PSUs) I replace with 3300uF Samxon GD with great sucess.
Coungratulations, tough. Witch brand and type of caps you used as replacement, may I ask?


I agree wholeheartedly. And if I may add - the only way to got a reliable and long-time stable PSU is to either buy a Zippy server PSU, or buy a good, despectable design like Enermax, Seasonic or Antec and EXCHANGE the caps to quality ones as I did with my Enermax 620W Liberty recently, for example and among others.

PS. most people think that "the cheapo PSU works and I'm stupid, paying premium for the Enermax crap", but all I can say - time will show us, my friends Just as my Antec NEO 480W PSU destroyed my DFI LP B mobo thanks to the used Fuhjyyu caps in the PSU, you too will learn how much the PSU is important, especially when your machine is demanding one and / or you overclock

I used KZG. It ain't good i know, but it's the best i can found in here.

already change the caps in ASUS P4P800 DLX. the mosfet still hot , but better than before.
( although already change the caps from 6.3v 1000mF to 6.3v 15000mf ).
should i change it again to bigger caps?

KZG is like GD at specs - eg. mediocre. I know, getting quality caps could be a problem. Contact Big Pope. I would try a the testing GC 1800uF d8 - maybe. If the mosfet is still heated up a lot (how much it is, can you measure? Mosfets usualy get hot...), then you might consider that it already got too much ripple from the mobo/PSU and the rest of the system is need to be recapped too, to give clean voltage. Sounds bad? Yes, it is. Bad caps are, well, everywhere and the results are, well... very bad.


User GTX, OCAU forum

They are hot because both mosfets are working in linear mode...